A Week at Rocca di Benano

This post is another wonderful guest’s answer to the ever-popular “what would a week at Rocca di Benano be like?” question. I like his answer, particularly the “discovery” of Anguillara Sabazia on the shores of Lake Bracciano. And don’t miss the last shot, when he and his family had to leave Benano. 

Thanks very much, Mike. We’re looking forward to having you back to Rocca di Benano!

It has taken a while but I’m finally writing about our perfect week this past August in Benano. Since our son and daughter-in-law live in Florida it was longest all five of us had been able to spend together over the past few years. It was a wonderful trip and I’d like to share a few highlights.

To make the most of this trip we hired Francis for the entire week. That could not have worked out any better. Driver and interpreter, tour guide, photographer, historian and storyteller. He even helped  with grocery shopping.

We visited many of the same cities and sites that other Benano guests have experienced. However, we would like to highlight a couple of places we visited that others might be interested in reading about. We arrived in Rome on Saturday morning. Since official check-in isn’t until 4pm, we used the time traveling between Rome and Benano to visit the city (or is it a village?) of Anguillara Sabazia. It’s just bit north of Rome and sits on the shore of Lake Bracciano. If anyone is a fan of the television show Everybody Loves Raymond you would recognize it as the site where they shot their two-part episode in Italy.

Our family is a fan of that show and we can remember seeing that episode for the first time and thinking how nice it would be if someday we could visit a place like that. Well, that someday came. Of course, the town was spruced up a bit for the filming but it’s still as picturesque as it is in the show.

Another site we visited was the Florence American Cemetery. It’s just off the A1 Autostrada south of the city of Florence. This is one of two American World War II cemeteries in Italy. This is the resting place for soldiers killed in the later stages of fighting in Italy, after the Allied liberation of Rome. The other cemetery is near Anzio.

We left Benano early for the drive north, spent some time at the cemetery and then, rather than go into Florence, made our way back toward Benano and spent the rest of the day in Siena. The campo in Siena just happened to be set up for their famous horse race, the Palio, which was going to run the next day. Since we did not see Florence itself we have one more reason to someday return to Benano. Actually it was such a wonderful week all around I don’t think we need any one single reason to come back.

We were on the go every day. We visited Orvieto twice, Civita di Bagnorigio, Assisi, the sagra in Torre Alfina (along with return visits for dinner and gelato), Pienza, Montepulciano, Siena and a full day in Rome capped with an evening dinner on the beach in Fiumicino. We still found time to enjoy Benano, too, with a couple of evenings grilling on the terrace and a special Creole dinner on our last night there.

We had a wonderful time in Italy and at Rocca di Benano. It was the trip of a lifetime. At least until we’re able to go back!

Katie’s Itinerary for a Week in Benano

I always offer to help our guests plan their trips, and I’m happy when they accept some help. And when my friend Katie accepted my offer, I was thrilled.

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Katie had agreed to act as her traveling party’s activities director, and they hit the jackpot when they assigned her to the role. She read everything I sent her, pored over this blog and Rocca di Benano’s Pinterest Board (which is sort of ironic, since she was the one who taught me the wonders of Pinterest), then drafted an itinerary that we worked on together.

Here’s the itinerary Katie has proposed for her group. Although there’s not one agenda that will work for everyone, this is one great way to spend a week at Rocca di Benano.

Read to the end to see just how good Katie is. (Hint: she even researched gelato!)

DAY 1 (Friday) — ARRIVE IN ROME

Francis Surman will meet us at the airport and take us to Hotel la Residenza (€130/night). Take a hop on/hop off double decker bus tour of Rome and/or stroll around the neighborhood. Villa Borghese park, Spanish Steps, and Piazza del Popolo are all within easy walking distance.

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DAY 2 (Saturday) — MEANDER FROM ROME TO BENANO

P1040573 - Version 3Francis Surman will pick us up at the hotel and take us to Benano, touring along the way, including a stop in Orvieto to pick up the rental car.

Dinner: either eat in at the villa, or go to to Nuovo Castello in Torre Alfina (10 minutes from Benano) or La Pergoletta in Castel Viscardo (5 minutes from Benano)

DAY 3 (Sunday) — AGRITURISMO PULICARO & LAKE BOLSENA

Brunch and farm tour at Il Pulicaro (10 minutes from Benano), then …

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… Lake Bolsena and town of Bolsena (1/2 hour from Benano), then …

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Dinner: Either stop on the way back from Bolsena at Ristorante-Pizzeria “L Pignatto” in San Lorenzo Nuovo or make dinner for ourselves eat at the villa.

DAY 4 (Monday) — CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO & ORVIETO

Tour Civita di Bagnoregio (35 minutes from Benano), lunch at Hosteria del Ponte, then …

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… on to Orvieto (35 minutes from Civita; 18 from Benano), then …

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Dinner: Ristorante Zeppelin in Orvieto

DAY 5 (Tuesday) — TUSCANY

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Cross over into Tuscany and take  Via Cassia up toward Pienza. Other stops could include Bagno Vignoni (hot springs); Montalcino (Brunello!); Sant’Antimo Abbey (check schedule for Gregorian chants);  Monticchiello (maybe lunch on the terrace at La Porta?). Dinner options: in Montepulciano (perhaps A Gambe di Gatto?); in Orvieto on way home if we take the freeway back; or at the villa.

DAY 6 (Wednesday) — FLORENCE

Catch an early train to get to there before 10. Spend the day touring Florence. Either stay for dinner there and take a late train back or eat in Orvieto near the train station (Ristorante Trattoria da Valerio or  Trattoria da Dina).

t-numunoDAY 7 (Thursday) — WINERY and ORVIETO

Wine tasting at Palazzone, followed by another visit to Orvieto and dinner at Osteria Numero Uno in Orvieto

DAY 8 (Friday) — FINAL DAY AT BENANO

Lazy day near Benano, including (maybe):

  • a long walk through the vineyards and olive orchards right around the villa;
  • walk over to Viceno for a caffè at the bar there and a pottery demonstration;
  • last visit to Visit Castel Viscardo (the market comes to Castel Viscardo on Fridays);
  • last stroll around the castle in Torre Alfina.

Dinner option: Hire Alex to barbecue for us at the villa.

DAYS 9 – 12 (Saturday – Tuesday) — LEAVE BENANO / RETURN TO ROME / DEPART FOR HOME

Return rental cars, then Francis will drive us to Hotel Due Torri (€147-190/night) in Rome, touring and lunching along the way). While in Rome, take in dinner at Il Bacaro one night and at Osteria del Pegno another. Tour the Colosseum, Vatican, and go on a Rome Food tour.

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There’s something else you should know about this extensively researched itinerary: Katie found the most highly acclaimed gelaterias almost everywhere they’re planning to go. Here are some of the gelataterias they’re hoping to visit:

Rome: Any or all of the places mentioned in this blog post, but especially Gelateria del Teatro.

Torre Alfina: Sarchioni’s

Bolsena: Gelateria Santa Cristina

Orvieto: La Musa, on the lower end of the Corso (the main shopping street) and Gelateria Pasqualetti. There are two Pasqualetti locations: one is on Piazza del Duomo and the other is at the corner of Via del Duomo and the Corso.